Garment



April 5, 1949. M. M. BROHARD, JR

GARMENT 2 Sheets-Sheet l I Filed Oct. 8, 1947 .w R I m mm. m M 0 M April 5, 1949. M. BROHARD, JR 2,466,368

GARMENT Filed 001;. 8 1947 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR. MONT/E M. Bea/#1120, c/R.

Patented Apr. 5, 1949 UNITED STATES Arr ENT orrics 4 Claims.

This invention relates to a garment,.and concerns particularly a shirt or jacket type of garment embodyingv certain novel features of con-- struction.

One of the objects of the: invention is to provide agarment of unusual but attractive appearance,

departing from the conventional type of shirt orjacket.

Another object is to provide a revolutionary style of collar constructionfor a shirt or jacket.

A further object is to provide in a garment a collar of novel construction having no conventional collar points to become disarranged; out of shape, orotherwisedisheveled, the-collar being at alltimes smoothly arranged on the body of the wearer.

Another object of the invention is to provide. a

garment construction having the foregoing characteristics without sacrificing any of the. comfort to the wearer.

These and other objects and advantages are attained by the means described herein and illustrated'upon the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is front view of the garment as-it appears upon the person of the wearer.

Fig. 2 is a rear view'of the same.

Fig. 3 is a fragmental front view of the garment, showing: the collar laid back to a- V-ncck. position, part of the garment being broken: away to show its construction.

Fig. 4. is a fragmental front view of the garment as worn with a four-in-hand tie.

Fig. 5 is a, View of the collar piece, partlyfolded and partly flattened, which forms part of the invention.

Fig; 6 is a cross sectional view taken online 6.6 Of Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view taken. online 1-1 of Fig. 5.

The garment of the present invention: is aninnovation in shirt or jacket design; in that. it departs from theconventional typeof collar construction usually employed in. garment manu- .facture. garment presents an. unusually attractive appearance, Whether worn with. the collar closed at the neck, with or without atie, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4, or open at the neck, asin Fig. 3. The. comfort of the wearer has not been sacrificed,.but.rather, if anything, enhanced, since he need no longer be concerned with unruly collar points which often presented a problem in the conventional type of garment. As a study of the drawings will show, the usual collar points are non-existing in the garment ofthe present inven-- Because its novel construction... the,

to the collar tion; thus eliminating the problem of controlling collar points tomaintain them in neat condition, m-uch to the relief ofthe'sartorially fastidious.

The garment. may be made with any: of the standard shirtingor jacket materials, and if desired, parts of thegar-ment may be-made of one material or color, and other parts of a different color or material. The. garment may be provided'with-long or short sleeves, the former being shown' upon the drawings, it being understood,

that the styleyof' the garment is not to belimited to; thextype exemplified;

The. principal parts of the garment comprise the;right and leftfront panels Stand Ill; the-back panel l2, the sleeves l3 and M; the collar I5, and theiyoke: It. The back isshown: as being in one piece; although it may be made with several panels if desired; and may begatheredat theback and yoke. seam IT, as, shown in- Figs. 2' and 3. The. front panels and iii, commonly called fronts, extend vertically from the, bottom or tail edge 18 of the garment to the shoulder seams l9 and: 20, and transversely from the meeting or closing edges 2! and 22 around. to theside seams 23 and 24, where the front panelsmeet the; back l2; The sleeves l3 and M, of course; arestitched into the armscyes of the garment. in the usual manner, at the seams indicated at 25 and 26: One or more pockets 28 may be provided, either-of the set-in or patch type.

The yoke I6 preferably comprises two ormore thicknesses or layers of material, although a single panel may be used. The yoke is set. into theshirt in the usual manner, the method of inserting and sewing thereof being a matter of immateriality tothe invention.

Except for the construction of the collar' 15, the garment-shown in the drawings is more or less conventional. Onlythat stitching which refers construction is shown upon the drawings. it being understood that suitable stitching'orsewing is employed in joining together the component parts of garments at the seams hereinbefore described.

The collar I5 comprisesan irregularly shaped piece of material 29, shown partly in folded condition and partly in flattened condition. in Fig. 5. The central section 30, which connects the two wing like members 35 and 32, forms the folded rear collar portion 33 of the completed garment.

The wing=likemembers '3! and- 32. overlap the upper portions of the'sh-irt front panels 9 and I 0 respectively. as shown in Figs. 1, 3;; and 4, extending from the central front collar meeting.

3 point 34 (Fig. l), to each side seam 23 and 24 beneath the armpits 35, Fig. 3.

A major portion of the outline of the wings 3i and 32 conforms to the outline of the upper portions of the front shirt panels 9 and 10. The upper straight margins 35 and 36 are sewed to the shirt along with the front panels 9 and ii), at the shoulder seams l9 and 20, respectively, by means of stitching 38, while the arcuate margins 39 and 40, form a portion of the armscyes to which the sleeves l3 and I4 are attached, the stitching of which is indicated at 4|. The short margins 42 and 43, of the collar piece 29, are joined to the rear shirt panel l2 at the side seams 23 and 24, as shown under the right sleeve at 35 in Fig. 3, the stitching thereof being shown at 44. Y i

The outer margin 45 of the wing connecting member 30, Fig. 5, is in detached relationto the back of the shirt, as shown in Fig.2. Prior to sewing the collarpiece 29 to the body of the shirt, a suitable hem 46, Figs. and 6, may be provided on the collar piece margin 45. The relation of the collar l5 to the shirt, at the back thereof, is substantially the same as that of a conventional shirt or jacket, as will be understood from Fig. 2, the lower margin 45 being in detached relationship, as hereinbeforerecited.

The inner margin of the wing connector 39, Figs. 5, fijand 7, may be attached to the yoke l6 in-th-e conventional manner, as shown at the seam 49 in Figs. 1, 3, and 4, the stitching of which is indicated at 59. The collar is thus folded subs'tantially upon the longitudinal center line 41 of the wingbonnector 39.

The depending tabs 5| and 52 of the collar'piece 29 are suitably secured to the shirt front panels 9 and IB, respectively, in the following manner: The tabs 5l' and 52 are turned under (tab 5| being shown in this position in Fig. 5), so that the marginal edges 53 and 54 of said tabs coincide with the meeting or closing edges 2| and 22 of the shirt fronts 9 and Hi, the respective edges being stitched together as indicated at 55 in Figs. 1 and 3. The tabs 5| and 52 may be of any desired length, extending for the entire length of the front panels to the bottom or tail edge, if preferred.

The final step in assembling the collar piece 29 is to sew the lower margins 58 and 59 of the wing members 3| and 32 to the shirt front panels 9 and 10, as indicated at 69 and GI, respectively, in Figs. I, 3, and 4. It will be noted that the stitching 60 and 51 extends from the side seams 23 and 24 to a point 62 remote from the collar meeting point 34. Prior to applying the stitches 50 and 6| which connect the win members 31 and 32 to the shirt fronts, the wing margins 58 and 59 may be suitably hemmed to provide a finished edge thereto. The detached portions of the collar from between the stitching termini 62 and the collar meeting point 34 permit the wearer of the garment to insert a necktie 63, Fig. 4, through the annular channel so provided, if he chooses. The loop or bight 64 of the tie 63 is indicated by broken lines in Fig. 4.

An alternative construction of the shirt front panels is shown in Fig. 3. In the exemplified form, a major portion of the material of the shirt panels underlying the collar win members 3i and 32 may be cut away as indicated at 65 in Fig. 3, in order to effect economy in the use of material. In this case, the wing membersSi and 1 32 serve to completethcfmnt panels, the finished garment giving no outward indication that the front panels have been cut away.

Any one of several closure means for the garment may be employed, buttons 56 being indicated upon the drawings. Other closure means may include slide fasteners, snaps, and the like.

As herein disclosed, the garment of the present invention is so constructed as to provide advantages never before attained in the art. The unusual collar effect is a radical cleparture from anything hitherto produced in the sartorial art, being both pleasing in appearance, and comfortable to the wearer. There are no collar points to bend outwardly from the shirt front or otherwise become awry, as in the conventional type of garment. The entire garment, whether buttoned at the neckline or worn open at the neck, as shown in Fig. 3, and whether or not worn with a necktie, scarf, or the like, presents a much desired novel effect never heretofore attained.

It is to be understood, of course, the various structural modifications may be made within the scope of the appended claims, without departing from the spirit of the invention. For instance, the tail portion may be eliminated and a-waistband provided instead, the sleeves may be long or short or entirely omitted, and the pocket may be omitted or other pockets added. Furthermore, the width of the collar at the rear (Fi 2) is not to be necessarily'restrictedto the widthshown, as it is possible to increase this dimension for the purpose of imparting a cape effect across the rear of the garment. In such a case it may be desirable to omit the yoke, and resort to the equally conventional practice of stitching the top of the shirt fronts to the top of the back at the shoulders; and in fact, the garment illustrated by the accompanying patent drawings may be so constructed in accordance with the common practice, 'if desired.

What is claimed is:

1. A shirt or jacket type of garment comprising front sections and a back section terminating at their upper ends in a neck portion and being provided with armscyes, a foldover type of collar secured to said neck portion and a wing carried by each end of the outer collar fold at the front of the garment and extending in opposite directions across a front section of the garment and terminating adjacent an armscye, the front edges of said wings diverging downwardly and means for securing each wing to a front section of the garment.

2. A shirt or jacket type of garment comprising front sections and a back section terminatin at their upper ends in a neck portion and being provided with armscyes, a foldover type of collar secured to said neck portion and a wing carried by each end of the outer collar fold at the front of the garment and extending in opposite directions across a front section of the garment and terminatin adjacent an armscye, the front edges of said wings diverging downwardly and means for securing each wing to a front section of the garment and to said armscyes.

3. A shirt or jacket type of garment comprisin front sections and a back section terminating at their upper ends in a neck portion and being provided with armscyes, a foldover type of collar secured to said neck portion and a wing carried by each end of the outer collar fold at the front of the garment and extending in opposite directions across a front section of the garment, and terminating adjacent the armscyes, the front edges of said wings divergingdownwardly,and

means for securing each wing to a front section REFERENCES CITED of the garment, a portion of said securing means extending along said diverging edge of the wing The following references are of record in the throughout only a portion of its length to provide file of this patent: an a may be 5 P 4. A shirt or acket type garment comprising front sections and a back, both terminating at Number Name Date their upper ends in a neck portion and the gar- 1,121,515 Lipman 6 1 4 ment being provided at opposite sides with 1 3 Marinsky 20, 1935 armscyes, a foldover collar comprising an inner 10 2,363,554 Frank b- 1945 and an outer layer for encirclin the neck of the FOREIGN PATENTS wearer with the inner layer secured to said neck portion and the outer layer of said collar at each Number Country Date front end thereof being provided with a relatively 190,134 swltzerla'nd July 1937 wide wing, each Wing extending from the center 15 of the garment across a front section and terminating adjacent an armscye and means for securing each Wing to the said front section.

MONTIE M. BROHARD, JR. 

